See the hole from above and get live distance to the green from your phone’s GPS. Free, no sign-up — powered by OpenStreetMap.
Tell us the course and we’ll map it into Course GPS — usually within a few days. Add a website or scorecard link if you have one; leave your email and we’ll let you know when it’s live.
Thanks — your course is queued. We’ll map it into Course GPS, and if you left your email we’ll let you know when it’s live.
Prefer email? Write hello@golfhandicapindex.com with the course name and town.
Something wrong with a course — a hole in the wrong spot, a missing green, off distances? Tell us and we’ll fix it.
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Prefer email? Write hello@golfhandicapindex.com with the course and the problem.
Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL). Distances use your device GPS (~3–10 m).
About This Tool
A golf GPS uses satellites to work out exactly where you are standing, then measures the distance from that spot to the green. This free Course GPS finds your course, shows the hole from above, and gives you a live yardage to the putting surface — no extra device to carry and no app to download. Knowing your true distance is one of the fastest ways to hit more greens and shoot lower scores.
Satellites fix your position on the course, and the app compares it to the mapped location of the green to return a distance in yards or meters. Most golf GPS tools give you the front, middle and back of the green — useful because the difference between a front and back pin can be two full clubs. Aiming at the middle number is the safe play that leaves the fewest short-sided misses.
Both measure distance, but differently. A GPS gives you yardages to the green (and often hazards) automatically, with no aiming — ideal for pace of play and for seeing the whole hole. A laser rangefinder shoots a precise distance to whatever you point it at, like the flag itself, but needs a clear line of sight and a steady hand. Many golfers use GPS for the general picture and a laser for the exact pin. This tool gives you the GPS number for free, on the phone that is already in your pocket.
Consumer golf GPS is typically accurate to within about 3 to 10 yards, which is plenty for club selection. Accuracy depends on your device and satellite signal; open courses give the best results. When a course has full mapped green data, distances are surveyed and precise; when only the course outline is available, the tool shows an approximate layout and labels the yardage with an amber Approx badge so you know.
Yes — under the Rules of Golf (Rule 4.3), using a device to measure distance is allowed in most play. In competition, a local rule can restrict devices that also measure slope (elevation change), so keep any slope feature switched off unless the event permits it. For casual rounds, GPS and rangefinders are welcome and speed up play.
It is free, needs no sign-up, and works on the phone you already carry. Pair it with a real Handicap Index from our calculator to track your game over time.
Yes — completely free, with no account, no sign-up and no app to download. It runs right in your browser.
No. Course GPS works in your phone's web browser. Add it to your home screen if you'd like one-tap access.
Typically within about 3 to 10 yards, depending on your device and signal — accurate enough for confident club selection.
GPS gives automatic yardages to the green with no aiming; a laser rangefinder shoots an exact distance to a target you point at, such as the flag. Many golfers use both.
Distance-only devices are generally allowed under Rule 4.3. Slope-measuring features may be restricted by local rule, so switch slope off in competition unless it is permitted.
A yardage on its own does not save you a shot — how you use it does. The number to the green is the start of a decision, not the end of one. Once you know your true distance, the trick is to turn it into a club and a target you can commit to. Here is how better players quietly use the same information to shoot lower scores.
The smart default is the number to the centre of the green, not the flag. The middle is the fattest part of the target, so it gives you the most margin when your strike is a little heavy, thin, or off line. Chase a tucked pin and a small miss becomes a bunker or a slope; aim at the middle and that same miss usually finds putting surface.
This is where the front, middle and back yardages earn their keep. If the flag is at the front and you play the middle number, you leave yourself a longer putt but take the short-side trouble out of play. If the pin is at the back, the middle number stops you flying the green. Read the pin position, then adjust a club up or down from the centre distance rather than firing straight at the stick. Where you can, favour the club and line that leaves an uphill putt — uphill is far easier to judge and to hole than a slippery downhiller.
A GPS gives you the distance to a spot; your carry number tells you which club actually gets there. Carry is how far the ball flies through the air before it lands. Total distance adds the roll after it lands. On a soft green, into wind, or over a hazard, carry is the number that matters, because roll cannot be relied on.
Spend a session working out your stock carry for each club — the distance you cover with a smooth, repeatable swing, not the one you catch flush once a round. When you know that a comfortable 7-iron carries 150 yards, a GPS reading of 150 stops being a guess and becomes a confident swing. Then club up when the conditions ask for it: into a stiff wind or up a noticeable slope, one more club and an easy swing almost always beats forcing a shorter iron.
The green is not the only number worth knowing. Use the GPS to check what it takes to carry a fairway bunker, or how far you have to the front edge of the water so you can lay up safely short of it. Knowing the distance to the trouble is often more valuable than the distance to the target, because it tells you which shot removes the big mistake.
On a driveable-looking hole with sand at 250, laying back to a comfortable full-swing number can be the lower-risk play. Short of a pond, leaving yourself a stock wedge rather than a nervy half shot keeps a big number off the card. Pick the target that takes your worst miss out of play, and let the yardage confirm the club that gets you there.
Mid and higher handicappers save the most shots not by hitting it closer, but by missing in better places. Three habits do most of the work. First, aim at the fat part of the green and ignore the flag — bogey avoidance beats birdie hunting. Second, take enough club; amateurs leave far more approaches short than long, so pick the club that reaches the middle and swing within yourself. Third, never short-side yourself — if the pin sits behind a bunker, play to the open side of the green where a miss still leaves a straightforward chip.
A phone-based GPS only helps the group if it does not slow the group down. The good news is that getting your number takes seconds when you plan for it. Check your distance while someone else is hitting, or on the walk to your ball, so you are ready to pull a club the moment it is your turn.
Have your yardage, your club and your target sorted before you step in, then commit — the pre-shot thinking should already be done. Keep your phone on silent so it does not go off mid-backswing in your group or the one behind. And do not stand over the ball fiddling with an app or waiting for a signal to settle; if the reading is slow, glance at the map, trust a sensible number, and go. A quick, decisive GPS check keeps play moving. A golfer buried in their screen on every shot is the one holding everyone up.